Lebaka Leo U Lokelang ho Eketsa Lactic, Citric, le Li-Acids Tse Ling Lenaneng la Tlhokomelo ea Letlalo

Litaba

• Motsoako oa Mandelic
• Lactic acid e
• Malic Acid
• Asitiic asiti
• Phytic asiti
• Asiti ea Tartaric
• Citric Acid
• Molemo ka ho fetisisa Blends
• Tlhahlobo bakeng sa

Ha glycolic acid e ne e hlahisoa mathoasong a lilemo tsa bo-1990, e ne e le phetoho ea tlhokomelo ea letlalo. E tsejoa e le alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), e ne e le motsoako oa pele o sebetsang o ka sebelisoang lapeng ho potlakisa ho thella ha lisele tse shoeleng le ho hlahisa letlalo le lecha, le boreleli, le boreleli ka tlase. Hamorao re ile ra ithuta hore motsoako oa 'moba o ka boela oa etsa hore letlalo la hao le hlahise collagen.

Eaba ho tla salicylic acid, beta hydroxy acid (BHA) e neng e ka qhala sebum buildup ka hare ho masoba le ho sebetsa joalo ka anti-inflammatory, e etsa hore e be ntle bakeng sa letlalo le lefubelu, le koatileng, le nang le mafura. (Bona: Na Salicylic Acid ehlile ke Sesebelisoa sa Mohlolo bakeng sa makhopho?) Ka lebaka leo, glycolic acid e ile ea fetoha maemo a khauta bakeng sa ho thibela botsofe mme salicylic acid ea fetoha moratuoa oa li-acne. Seo ha sea ka sa fetoha ho fihlela haufinyane.

Hona joale lihlahisoa tse ling tsa tlhokomelo ea letlalo li na le liasiti tse sa tsejoeng haholo joalo ka mandelic, phytic, tartaric le lactic. Ke hobane'ng ha ho eketsoa? "Ke nahana ka li-glycolic le salicylic acid joalo ka libapali tse etellang pele papaling le liasiti tsena tse ling e le batšehetsi ba ts'ehetsang. Ha bohle ba sebetsa 'moho, ba ka ntlafatsa tlhahiso," ho bolela Sebopeho Setho sa Brain Trust Neal Schultz, MD, ngaka ea letlalo ea New York City.

Libapali tsena tse tšehetsang li ntlafatsa tšebetso ka mabaka a mabeli. Taba ea pele, le hoja li-acids tse ngata li thusa ho exfoliation, "e 'ngoe le e' ngoe e etsa bonyane ntho e le 'ngoe e molemo bakeng sa letlalo," ho bolela ngaka ea dermatologist ea NYC, Dennis Gross, MD. Tsena li kenyelletsa ho matlafatsa metsi, ho loantša li-radicals tsa mahala, le ho thusa ho tsitsisa foromo e le hore e tšoarelle nako e telele. (Related: Metsoako ea 5 ea Tlhokomelo ea Letlalo e Felisang Letlalo le Letsoatlare le ho U Thusa ho Khanya ho Tsoa ka hare) Lebaka la bobeli ke hore ho sebelisa li-acid tse ngata sebakeng se tlaase (ho e-na le tse ling tse ngata haholo) ho ka etsa hore foromo e se ke ea halefisa. "Ho e-na le ho eketsa asiti e le 'ngoe ka karolo ea 20 lekholong, ke khetha ho eketsa li-acid tse' nè ho karolo ea 5 lekholong ho finyella liphello tse tšoanang ka monyetla o fokolang oa ho baka bofubelu," Dr. Gross o re. (FYI, motsoako oa liasiti ke boloi bo kamora Baby Foot.)

Joale ke melemo efe e khethehileng eo batho baa ba tlang pele ba fanang ka eona? Rea e senya:

Motsoako oa Mandelic

Ena ke molek'hule e kholo haholo, ka hona ha e phunyeletse letlalong ka botebo. "Seo se etsa hore ho be betere bakeng sa mefuta e hlokolosi hobane ho kenella ho sa tebang ho bolela kotsi e tlase ea ho teneha," ho bolela Dr. Gross. Renée Rouleau, setsebi se tummeng sa sethetolelo sa Austin, o re AHA ena e ka boela ea thusa "ho thibela tlhahiso ea pigment e feteletseng." Ka temoso e le 'ngoe. "Mandelic acid e thusa ho ntlafatsa exfoliation le ho fokotsa kotsi ea ho halefa ha e kopantsoe le glycolic, lactic, kapa salicylic, empa mohlomong ha hoa lekana hore sebapali sa matla se be teng sehlahisoa se le seng."

Lactic acid e

E bile teng ka nako e telele-Cleopatra o sebelisitse lebese le senyehileng libateng tsa hae tsa ho hlapela ho pota 40 BCE hobane lebese la tlhaho la lebese le thusitse ho tlosa letlalo - empa ha e so ka e fumana botumo ba boemo ba glycolic hobane ha e matla joalo, e ka bang ntho e ntle. Lactic ke molek'hule e kholo, ka hona ke mokhoa o mong o sebetsang bakeng sa mefuta e thata, mme ho fapana le mandelic, e na le matla a lekaneng ho ba sebapali se etelletseng pele sehlahisoa. Dr. Gross o hlalosa hore asiti ea lactic le eona e tlamahane le karolo e kaholimo ea letlalo mme e e hlohlelletsa ho etsa li-ceramide, tse thusang ho boloka mongobo le ho halefa. (Mohlomong u kile ua utloa ka lactic acid mabapi le mokhathala le ho hlaphoheloa ha mesifa.)

Malic Acid

E fepeloa haholo-holo ke liapole, AHA ena e fana ka melemo e meng ea ho thibela botsofali joalo ka asiti ea lactic, empa "e bonolo haholo," ho bolela Debra Jaliman, MD, setsebi sa letlalo sa New York City. Ha e eketsoa e le motsoako o tšehetsang motsoako o nang le li-acid tse matla joalo ka lactic, glycolic, le salicylic, e thusa ho exfoliation e bonolo le ho susumetsa ceramide.

Asitiic asiti

Ha e na AHA kapa BHA, azelaic acid, e tsoang koro, rye kapa harese, "e na le thepa ea antibacteria le e khahlanong le ho ruruha, e etsang hore e be kalafo e sebetsang bakeng sa makhopho kapa rosacea," ho bolela Jeremy Brauer, MD, dermatologist ea New York . E tšoara ka bobeli ka ho theohela ka har'a follicles, ho bolaea baktheria leha e le efe e ka hare ho tsona le ho felisa ho ruruha ho bakoang ke tšoaetso. Asidi ea Azelaic e ka "emisa ho thehoa ha melanine e feteletseng e ikarabellang bakeng sa matheba a lefifi, mabala le mabala a sa lekaneng letlalong," ho bolela Dr. Jaliman. E loketse letlalo le letšo (ho fapana le hydroquinone le li-lasers tse ling) hobane ha ho na kotsi ea ho tlatselletsa kapa ho tšoaetsoa habonolo, 'me e lumelletsoe basali ba baimana le ba anyesang. Hona ke tlatsetso e kholo hobane "basali ba bangata ba na le bothata ba melasma le li-breakout tse mabapi le bokhachane," ho bolela Dr. Jaliman. (Mona ke mokhoa oa ho ntša letlalo la hau la letlalo ka kalafo ea lasers le makhapetla.)

Phytic asiti

Asiti e 'ngoe eo e seng AHA kapa BHA, morekisi enoa ea ka ntle ke antioxidant, ka hona e thusa ho loants'a li-radical tse sa tsofalang tsa letlalo. E ka boela ea thibela li-blackheads le ho fokotsa masoba. Dr. Gross o re: "Asiti ea Phytic e sebetsa ka ho tšela calcium, e tummeng hampe bakeng sa letlalo." "Calcium e fetola oli ea letlalo la hau ho tloha mokelikeli ho ea boka, 'me ke boka bo botenya bo hahang ka hare ho masoba, bo lebisang ho li-blackhead le ho otlolla li-pores hore li bonahale li le kholoanyane." (Sena ke sohle seo u hlokang ho se tseba ka ho tlosa li-blackheads.)

Asiti ea Tartaric

AHA ena e tsoa morareng o lomositsoeng mme e eketsoa mefuteng ea glycolic kapa lactic acid ho matlafatsa ho thellelisoa ha eona. Empa molemo oa eona o ka sehloohong ke bokhoni ba eona ba ho laola boemo ba pH ba foromo. "Acids e tsebahala ka morphing pHs, 'me haeba e phahama haholo kapa e le tlaase haholo sehlahisoa, phello ke ho halefa ha letlalo," Rouleau o re. "Asiti ea Tartaric e ka thusa ho boloka lintho li tsitsitse." (E amanang: 4 Lintho Tse Boqhekanyetsi Tse Lahlellang Letlalo la Hau Tekanyo)

Citric Acid

Ho tšoana le tartaric, citric acid, AHA e fumanoang haholo-holo ka lilamunu le lime, e boetse e boloka li-acid tse ling ka har'a pH e sireletsehileng. Ntle le moo, e sebetsa e le sethibela, e nolofalletsang mekhoa ea tlhokomelo ea letlalo hore e lule e khatholla haleletsana. Kamora nako, citric acid ke chelator, e bolelang hore e tlosa litšila tse halefisang (moeeng, metsing le tšepe tse boima) letlalong. "Ground acid e tšoara litšila tsena hore li se ke tsa kena letlalong la hau," ho bolela Dr. Gross. "Ke rata ho nahana ka eona e le Pac-Man ea letlalo." (PS o lokela ho bala hape ka microbiome ea letlalo la hau.)

Molemo ka ho fetisisa Blends

Leka lihlahisoa tsena tse nang le asiti bakeng sa nyollo ea mahlaseli.

• Ngaka Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Exfoliating Moisturizer ($68; sephora.com) e na le li-acid tse supileng.
• Tlou e tahiloeng T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($ 90; sephora.com) e hlaha hape ha o robetse.
• Ho Emisoa ha Acid e Tloaelehileng 10% ($8; theordinary.com) molumo o tšoanang.
• BotleRx ke Dr. Schultz Advanced 10% Exfoliating Pads ($ 70; amazon.com) e boreleli, ea khanya, le lifeme.
• Ngaka Brandt Radiance Resurfacing Foam ($ 72; sephora.com) e fa letlalo lethal dose ea beke le beke ea li-acid tse hlano.

Tlhahlobo bakeng sa